Meet the locals. The people of Swaziland have a well-earned reputation for being friendly and helpful. So expect to hear “Hello Mom” and “Hello Sister” as you stroll down the street. Greet people with sowbona – for hello – and yabo – for reply. It may not be conversational Swazi, but at least it’s an indication that you’re not totally a tourist.
Swazis take, instead of tell. When I asked Skhumbuzo Mahlambi, the post office clerk, where I could buy a postcard, he closed his box and walked me halfway across the square. When we left, his co-workers didn’t even look up. Along the way he made a detour so she would know where to find a store that specialized in local arts and crafts. As we walked, I had to suppress a smile. Civil servants in Western countries can be penalized and/or fired for leaving their jobs. Guides were also sent to show me where to find a taxi, the post office and an internet cafe.
Buy an emayadi at Mr. Cheap Fabric Centre. Head to Gwamile Street, Shop Number 3 for a good selection of emayadi cotton prints. These two-meter pieces of cotton fabric have a pattern that screams “Swazi” at sixty steps. The first time I saw a man wearing the traditional cloth I asked him where I could buy a robe. Even though he was buying a uniform for his wife, he walked to the store with me. It was easy, but I barely managed to convince the employees that I really preferred the emayadi with a traditional pattern, rather than the one with a picture of the King of Swaziland.
Have a beer at the Moonlight Bar. Order a local beer at this pub in Swazi Plaza and JJ will tell you how Sibebe is named after a mountain not far from Mbabane. This locals-only place has atmosphere and a positive attitude. The clientele includes teachers, drug dealers, working girls, construction boys and farmers. Sit on any available bar stool and sit on the person next to you.
Take a look at what’s on offer at Ligomba Lemasusagi. The official address is Shop Number 4, Edgar’s Building, Swazi Plaza. But if you can’t find it, don’t worry, just ask someone and they will most likely take you to the front door. If you’re not sure what to buy, ask Fiso, who runs the place, for some suggestions. This could very well be your one-of-a-kind souvenir purchase.
Hang out at Freedom Square. Put up a park bench on the corner of Somhlolo and Gwamile. This is where the real Swazi hang out. Visit of friends; guys drinking bottles covered in a plastic bag; people reading newspapers; breastfeeding mothers. The shade of one of the many large trees is an ideal spot to spend an hour or so peeking people-watching.
Hop in a combie and drive like a local. These 14-seater vans ply their trade along various routes. The bus stop is right in the center of the city and is a must. Looking down it is literally a sea of white rooftops from the combies. How they manipulate in and out is truly an art form. The buses, the people, the street vendors, the fruit vendors all add to the total chaos. The area has a vibrant rhythm of its own and people dance to it.